Martinique by Sail: A Leeward Coast Cruising Guide from Le Marin to Saint-Pierre
There are Caribbean islands you visit, and Caribbean islands that get under your skin. Martinique is firmly in the second category. This French overseas department delivers what few destinations can: genuine cultural depth, superb provisioning, dramatic volcanic scenery, and anchorages that range from bustling marina life to solitary bays where the only company is green-flashing hummingbirds and the occasional sea turtle. For the bluewater cruiser heading through the Windward Islands, Martinique's leeward coast deserves more than a quick fuel stop — it rewards a week of slow exploration.
Le Marin: Your Southern Starting Point
Most cruisers enter Martinique at Le Marin, the island's yachting capital and home to one of the largest marinas in the Caribbean. Marin Bay is well-protected from the Atlantic swell, and the marina offers full services including fuel, water, electricity, haul-out facilities, and a chandlery that stocks everything from bottom paint to French wine. Customs and immigration are handled at the capitainerie — check in here first.
The town itself is compact but well-provisioned. A Leader Price supermarket sits within walking distance, and the daily market sells fresh produce, spices, and Creole prepared foods. Marin is also where you'll find the highest concentration of marine services — riggers, sailmakers, diesel mechanics, and electronics technicians. If your boat needs work, do it here before heading north.
Anchor in Marin Bay in 3–4 meters over mud, or take a marina berth if you need shore power. The holding is excellent, and the bay handles 25-knot trades without drama.
Sainte-Anne: The Beach Stop
Just two miles west of Le Marin, the anchorage off Sainte-Anne village offers turquoise shallows, a postcard-worthy beach, and a more relaxed atmosphere than the marina hub. Anchor in 2.5–3.5 meters over sand, keeping an eye on the reef that extends south from Pointe Marin. The village has small grocery stores, excellent bakeries, and several beachside restaurants serving accras de morue (salt cod fritters) and fresh-grilled fish.
The beach at Les Salines, a 20-minute dinghy ride south, is widely considered one of the most beautiful in the Caribbean — a long crescent of white sand backed by coconut palms. Visit midweek to avoid weekend crowds.
Grande Anse d'Arlet: The Cruiser's Favorite
Heading north along the leeward coast, Grande Anse d'Arlet is the anchorage that makes cruisers extend their Martinique stay by a week. The bay is deep and well-protected, with a dramatic backdrop of steep green hillsides. Anchor in 5–8 meters over sand — the bottom drops off quickly, so set your hook carefully and ensure good scope.
The village is postcard-perfect: a stone church fronting the beach, a handful of restaurants, and a dive shop offering trips to the nearby wrecks and coral gardens. The snorkeling right off the town beach is exceptional — swim out from the pier and you'll find turtles grazing on sea grass within 50 meters. Ashore, Restaurant Bikini and Ti Sable serve excellent Creole lunch plates at reasonable prices.
Anse Noire and Anse Dufour: Hidden Gems
Just north of Grande Anse d'Arlet, two tiny bays sit side by side, separated by a rocky headland. Anse Noire lives up to its name — a small cove with volcanic black sand that feels like a secret. Anse Dufour, immediately adjacent, has lighter sand and a small fishing community. Both bays are too small and deep for comfortable anchoring in anything over 35 feet, but they're worth a dinghy expedition from Grande Anse d'Arlet. The snorkeling is outstanding, with regular turtle sightings.
Fort-de-France: Provisioning and Culture
Martinique's capital offers the best provisioning in the southern Caribbean. The Anse Madame anchorage on the city's western edge provides reasonable shelter and easy dinghy access to the waterfront. The city itself is worth a full day ashore: visit the Schoelcher Library (a stunning iron-framed building originally constructed for the 1889 Paris Exhibition), explore the Grand Marché for spices and rum, and stock up at the Hyper U supermarket — the selection rivals any French supermarket, with cheeses, charcuterie, and wine that will transform your provisioning for the next month of cruising.
Fort-de-France is also the place to handle any remaining bureaucracy, visit a proper pharmacy, or find specialist medical care. The city is functional rather than beautiful, but it offers everything a cruiser needs before heading into less-developed islands to the north.
Saint-Pierre: History at the Foot of a Volcano
The northernmost anchorage worth visiting on the leeward coast, Saint-Pierre sits in the shadow of Mount Pelée — the volcano that destroyed the entire city in 1902, killing some 30,000 people in minutes. Today, Saint-Pierre is a quiet town rebuilt over the ruins, with an excellent museum documenting the eruption and a handful of underwater wrecks from the ships destroyed in the harbor that day.
Anchor in 8–12 meters over black volcanic sand — the holding is adequate but not as secure as the southern bays. Keep a weather eye on the swell, which can wrap around the northern point in unsettled conditions. The town rewards exploration: stone ruins peek out between modern buildings, the rum distillery Depaz sits on the volcano's slopes above town, and the diving on the 1902 wrecks is world-class.
Passage Notes
The leeward coast of Martinique runs roughly north-south, and the prevailing trade winds create a comfortable lee for the entire passage from Le Marin to Saint-Pierre. Expect flat water and light winds close to shore, building as you round each headland. The current generally sets north along the coast. Allow 5–7 days to cruise the full leeward coast comfortably — rushing defeats the purpose. And carry euros: while some tourist-oriented businesses accept US dollars, you'll get better prices and warmer welcomes paying in the local currency.
